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No Poo/Low Poo Cleansing

Monday Apr 27, 2009 – By Laquita Thomas-Banks

newclutchlogoblackIf you have visited a number of natural hair care sites you may have stumbled upon the “no poo” or “low poo” method of shampooing. The “no poo/low poo” method derives from shampooing your hair with shampoos (or conditioners) that do not contain harsh chemicals that are found in shampoos. There have also been several articles written of late on the ‘no-poo movement’. See NPR News and Glamour.

The primary chemicals that the no pooers/low pooers are seeking to avoid are the surfactants; Sodium Lauryl Sulfate – SLS, and Sodium Laureth Sulfate – SLES, these are usually the second ingredient in shampoos listed after water. There are several shampoos on the market that contain SLS substitutes, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate – ALS, and/or Ammonium Laureth Sulfate – ALES.

These chemicals are synthetic detergents made from petrochemicals (processed by refining petroleum). They are all foaming/cleansing agents that are also used in everything from engine degreasers to laundry detergent. The amount that is found in most shampoos is reported to be ’safe’ when it comes to brief use followed by thorough rinsing, and concentrations of the chemicals should not exceed 1% if products are intended for prolonged use.

There have been several claims that SLS even causes cancer, but this has been deemed as a myth. Check out these sites for more detail.

Links:
www.revolutionhealth.com
www.pathguy.com/sls.htm

There are also reports of people who have suffered from severe eye and skin irritation caused by SLS. For more info on SLS please visit the links below.

Links:
www.national-toxic-encephalopathy-foundation.org/sls.pdf

Experts suggest that you should make sure you rinse your hair thoroughly when using a shampoo that contains any of these detergents. I knew of some people who would let shampoo sit on their heads like a conditioner – never do this. These chemicals, along with other harsh detergents found in most shampoos do their job well, they strip the oil and dirt out of your hair, but unfortunately they also strip the natural moisture from your scalp. That’s why, along with rinsing thoroughly, it is also suggested by shampoo manufacturers that you use a conditioner (to replenish moisture) directly after shampooing.

Now some may say, “I’ve been using shampoo X for years and I haven’t had a problem.” This may be true, but the intent of this article is to inform you on healthier ways to clean your hair. For those who are environmentally conscious you should also know that not all synthetic detergents are biodegradable. Therefore, choosing to low poo/no poo can also be good for the environment. When I first began the no poo/low poo method I really did not notice too much of a difference, but about a month later I did notice that my scalp did not feel as dry directly after washing and my hair was a lot easier to detangle, which resulted in less hair breakage.

Some low pooers opt to use conditioners to wash their hair. They may use a conditioner as a weekly wash and use a low poo monthly. Conditioner has lower amounts of these chemicals and actually do a good job of cleaning the scalp. Conditioner washing i.e. co-washing can also save you money because they can be done with inexpensive conditioners, such as Suave or V05. But if you have product build-up, you will have to use a low poo or pre-rinse, such as an ACV (apple cider vinegar) and/or bicarbonate (baking soda) rinse before co-washing.

For some the only downside of co-washing is that conditioners do not produce a sudsy foam. If you feel that you can not get a ‘good’ clean without the foam there are alternatives. There are many shampoos on the market that contain saponified natural oils instead of synthetic detergents. Saponified basically means that the oils are converted into soap. Castile soap based shampoos are one example. The ingredient in castile based shampoos that makes the foam is saponified coconut oil. Olive, apricot kernel, palm, soybean and canola are other examples of oils that are used in replace of synthetic detergents.

Again, the best way to be worry free is to avoid these products. Seek out shampoos that do not contain them. Now this may be easier said than done because as mentioned, most products have, if not two, at least one of these chemicals. However, there are several castile soap based, organic and vegan shampoo/shampoo bars on the market. Dr. Bronner is an example of a vegetable oil based castile soap great for no-pooing, and Aubrey Organics is another .

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18 Comments – Add Yours

  1. Dry Scalp Dry Scalp says:

    Do you have a list of products that you suggest we use?

  2. Babs Babs says:

    Very informative article. I assume I would have to do a search to locate low-poo or nopoo shampoo. Or perhaps I could learn to make the no-poo; low-poo shampoo!

    Thank you for a very inspiring and informative article. It is always an eye-opener to find out the type of ingredients in the products we use most often.

  3. Shang Shang says:

    Great Article!! Co-washing doesn’t leave your scalp and hair dry and squeaky clean. I also notice less drandruff!

  4.  Eve says:

    What products would you suggest? Preferably anything I can buy in a local supermarket or CVS/Walgreens type store.

    Definitely informative!

  5. Laquita Laquita says:

    I’m not too sure if CVS would sell Dr. Bronner’s (they have it in some beauty supply stores though). Burt’s Bees ($8 for 12 oz) is a good one at Walgreen’s and CVS. Also at Walgreen’s there’s JASON ($8 for 16oz).

    But, for co-washes – you can use any inexpensive conditioner like Suave ($2 for 22.5 oz) or even V05 and just add a little olive oil to it.

  6. You have to dilute Dr. Bronner’s soap. It can be very drying otherwise. I use Giovanni Smooth As Silk Shampoo which is a great no-poo shampoo. Burts Bees, JASONS, and Jane Carter Solution are also good.

  7. Laquita Laquita says:

    @ Erica – Good point on the diluting of Dr. Bronner’s :o)

  8. Ayo Fashola Ayo Fashola says:

    I currently use deva curl sold at Ulta Cosmetics or you can visit their website. They have no poo and low poo shampoos (sulfate and silicone free) and their deep conditioner is to die for. Huge fan. http://www.devacurlconcepts.com

  9. Chai Chai says:

    I visited my local Whole Foods a while back and found a great selection of SLS free cleansers. A lot of what they have to offer are natural, organic products that really work! Or for a less expensive alternative, the Nature’s Gate line works amazingly well to cleanse and condition, and you can find it at most BSS.

  10. I’m natural with massive curly hair and I use foaming shampoo, I’m just so used to it. But for those looking to avoid thes shampoos a use the Egyptian Clay Mask on hair or a vinegar rinse and it will have your hair squeaky clean with less tangles.

  11. Arnita Arnita says:

    Great article. I was looking tother day for a SLS free shampoo base. I anking about getting one of them and then adding my E.O.’s. I just love reading your articles. I find out so much. Thanks

  12. Lish Lish says:

    oh no! pantene pro V for relaxed and natural contains those harmful chemicals!

  13. Pearlsrevealed Pearlsrevealed says:

    The Avalon Organics website has an extensive printer-friendly glossary of ingredients used in cosmetics. Click on “glossary” in the upper right corner to get to this list. Their line of shampoos are made with a lot of organic ingredients but have ingredients that sound like SLS. The company insists these are different and explain the differences in their glossary.

    The Lemon Clarifying shampoo is the best non SLS cleanser I have used on my locs but I could not tolerate it because I get a rash from any product that contains lemon balm.

    I was not impressed with Aubrey Organics shampoos ability to cleanse but this company formulate products with the purest ingredients and are non irritating to my VERY sensitive skin.

    Desert Essence Red Raspberry shampoo is DElicious.

    Both can be found in the southwestern US at Whole Foods, the Vitamin Cottage, and Sunflower Market.

  14. Jai Jai says:

    Target and Walmart sell Dr. Bronner’s. Your local health food stores may have Aubrey Organics shampoos and conditioners.

  15. Lenore J. Lenore J. says:

    I know that model!I actually only use “poo” when needed and mostly condition

  16. Talata Talata says:

    I actually recently embarked on a Lo-Poo hair regimen as I transition to natural. I mostly for conditioner washes and throw in a clarifying shampoo once every 3 to 4 weeks.

  17. Kat Kat says:

    I haven’t shampooed my hair since I was 19 (I’m 25 now). After reading Curly Girl by Lorriane Massey, I decided that not shampooing was for me. My hair looks better than before. I use Suave or VO5, nothing fancy. I’ve been digging the Hair Mayo by Africa’s Best too, makes my hair look awesome. All these products I pick up at my local Walgreen’s.

  18. Kat Kat says:

    I wanted to clarify, I use only conditioner!

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