Fashion

Are Black Designers Neglecting Middle Class Fashionistas?

Monday May 25, 2009 – By Nicole Miles

tracy20reese2020presents20d Tracy Reese, Stephen Burrows and Gavin Douglas are synonymous with the term fashion designers of color. They have paved the way for the generation of emerging designers, all while amassing international acclaim, catering to their A-list clientele and selling in the world’s greatest retailers. We revel in their success but we can’t help but wonder, who are they designing for?

Despite the murmurs of naysayers, there are plenty of women of color who love fashion. We understand the craft and the quality of a garment but just because we don’t have American Express black cards, that makes us the less desirable market.

When it comes to fashion for us, there are two extremes – luxury and mass marketed. Designers like the ones mentioned above have chosen the luxury route and their goods retail around $250. On the lower end, we have Apple Bottoms, House of Deréon and Baby Phat that cater to the more urban crowd.

Technically, I’m neither, so where does that leave me? Shopping in stores like Zara wishing that one day a designer of color will step up to the plate and design for me and my wallet. Please note, this is not to belittle the artistic expression of the designers, but I’m a working woman who does not want a glittered emblem on the butt of my pants or a credit card bill that haunts me for the rest of my life.

From my visualization, there’s no equilibrium in fashion and the woman of color in Middle America is forgotten. Houston, this is a huge problem.

Not only is my career progressing but I know that one day my clothing allowance will include a nice cushion for those $550 pair of Courtney Crawford heels. But I’ll hesitate. Not because I don’t support my fellow minority designers, but because those designers never took the opportunity to make their designs attainable for people like me.

I mean, what is really stopping designers from catering to the middle class? It’s not like they can lose.

We’re in the day and age where everyone is creating a diffusion line. Matthew Williamson, Karl Lagerfeld, Thakoon, Alexander McQueen have more than fashion empires in common, they’ve all managed to sell affordable designs at H&M and Target which broadened their customer base and their repertoire. And after all that, their business was not affected by offering something to us other folks.

Are the mass merchandisers reaching out to these designers or are they ignoring them? I truly do not understand because there is clearly a demand for affordable fashions so where is the supply?

Sure, Tracy Reese has two diffusion ready-to-wear collections but they are all in the same price point as her main collection. Rachel Roy, whose diffusion line for Macy’s debuts this fall, is on her third diffusion line, Rachel Rachel Roy, where her designs are available for under $300.

Are designers of color afraid to reach out to us for fear that once they go black, they can never go back?

Mr. and Ms. Designer Extraordinaire, keep this in mind as you gather inspiration for your next collection. Not catering to a woman with billions in buying power is only a disservice to your brand. We want to drape ourselves in your designs, but you won’t allow us to. Creating something for the working class woman of color can only help you reach the platform of success that you desire.

Have you seen the lines at H&M when those designers debut their collections? Can you imagine that being your designs? So what are you waiting for?

sarah Djarnie says:

May 29, 2009 at 5:32 pm

I hear you Lish….
and congrats on your graduation wish you much success on all of your endeavors
also just a bit of advise for all of the designers, as we try to do out thing that we call fashion we should always remember to also listen to the needs of the consumer hey Donna Karan has DKNY
Peace
Sarah

↑ Reply

Kamika says:

June 1, 2009 at 11:20 pm

I think its wrong for us as black people to think that if something is made by a black designer that we are entitled to be able to afford it or worse they re required to make it affordable to the black masses. That’s unfair and not good business sense. I can’t think of any other race that requires their native sons to make product for the entire race. It’s impossible and not only that, everyone will not like the same thing.

To comment on the under running theme of this post: As someone who creates a lot of things by hand, some original design and some not, I’ve noticed a constant reoccurring trend – The large gap between the understanding of those who create and those who consume. I’ve noticed over and over again that people who consume have a harder time grasping the value of something handmade or independently designed. Mass produced items are not comparable to handmade and therefore the price points aren’t the same. Handmade items are usually made with better materials, with more attention to detail, inherent uniqueness, and take longer to make. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve made something FIYAH for someone and their response was MEH! But they would run off to Target or the nearest Asian clothing store and fall in love with something along the same lines with raggedy stitching and a terrible cheap plastic stench and be in love.

I’m not saying all, but many people who do not create have a hard time appreciating handmade items.

Alicia/InstantVintage says:

June 9, 2009 at 3:35 pm

Kamika summed it up perfectly in her last paragraph. It costs money to produce quality garments – period. Sure you may not be able to afford everything in someone’s collection, but you can save up for an investment piece that you will wear forever and know that it will last because of the quality. Anything from a diffusion like or mass retailer is not going to hold up the same way because the materials are cheaper, the construction is poor and the cost reflects that.

As for Tracy Reese’s prices, I’ve found that for a well-known designer, she doesn’t charge as much as a LOT of others. If you can’t afford it, you can’t afford it. There is no reason to be ashamed or angry (because, hell, I can’t afford it), but if I’m in love with a piece, I’ll save up for it and get it (probably at a sample sale) just like I would for any other designer.

Asking someone to just lower the price is just rude and shows a lack of understanding about the money that goes into producing a line.

June 9, 2009 at 3:40 pm

Side note: has anyone considered the extra cost involved in making two separate lines (high and mid range) so that everyone can be satisfied?

I get the feeling that people think designers have access to endless capital to fund things like recession friendly lines on top of the ones they already have.

Melissa says:

June 15, 2009 at 8:05 am

I think in this day and age it is a bit unwise for merchants of any kind to ignore any client base. Businesses are folding and hard working people are losing jobs left and right. I don’t know too many people, regardless of the money they make, who will “waste” it on a pair of 500 dollar shoes when that money could cover the monthly car payment. It has nothing to do with pulling one’s self up by the bootstraps (or whatever that designer said); it has to do with practicality. Regardless of the workmanship that goes into creating and making a design, price points of many designers is beyond reasonable–be real, it doesn’t cost nearly as much to make the garment as designers would have us believe. My uncle designs and tailors clothing and has for years. He’s been commissioned by ordinary people, church folks, and celebrities alike. What makes him a success is that he doesn’t ignore any demographic because he knows that all people desire the ability to look stylish without breaking the bank.

brlbeleza says:

June 15, 2009 at 9:43 pm

Wow! I am so glad someone else is confirming a complaint I have had about black designers since I was a teen, reading about the Tracy Reese’s of the world (not to single her out though). Like the author, I fully intend to have the funds to patronize these designers regularly in the coming years; its very disappointing that they don’t really reach out to would-be buyers like me (where I am financially) now:-((

Giselle says:

June 16, 2009 at 2:16 am

It’s funny how we as a black community are targeting the black designers, if we are going to target and point the finger, why not point the finger on all designers that choose to market their products for the elite and rich instead of society as a whole. You can say the same thing for white designers such as Zac Posen, Michael Kor and so on. Don’t expect because that designer is black that we have to cut a price for the next brotha or sista. Oh yeah Baby Phat, Sean John and etc are brands that were created by black folks that had money, Kimora Simmons and P.Diddy are actually not head designers, they do not sew, sketch or have any physically involvement in their products. They have the money to buy their garments from overseas and sell their clothes at an affordable price. We black designers from scratch have to work extremely hard to get to that point even Tracy Reese is not there yet regardless of her prices. I’m not saying we can’t get to that point, but give us a chance to. And let’s be clear yes we are in a recession but that does not mean it’s affecting every consumer. There are still people buying and willing to purchases items at a high price. And Black People lets be real, we are the biggest market consumers in the world, we buy anything to keep ourselves looking good, so don’t give me that “Oh there’s just some Blacks that can’t afford to buy a 150 or 250 outfit”. We blacks always spending money instead of saving. We buy the most expensive car on the block even if the block is the ghetto. We spent thousands every year just on clothes and among other materialistic items. We are the first ones racing to spent money on a pair of 250 dollars shoes. Fact Christian Augier (Ed Hardy) clothes are very expensive, but yet I see his clothing is prevalent in the Black Community so that goes to show even if Black people can’t afford to buy it, they buy it anyway from White Designers. Notice how Blacks shed out major cash for the White Designer labels, but have a problem shedding out for BLACK DESIGNERS. IF U GOING TARGET, TARGET AMONG ALL RACES. One more thing, the Black Community never once demanded that Michael Jordan lower his prices on his shoes. Each year you have young kids and Grown ass adults shedding out money for those man’s shoes. Now in no way shape or form can I compare Michael Jordan’s shoes to say Black Designer Kevan Hall couture dresses, but I giving you an idea of how black people think and portray their actions, not all, but most. Now fashion is a business, meaning the clothes we design are an investment. The money we spent on Fabric, every single piece of decoration, models, marketing companies and so on that’s needed to make a collection, outfit is very costly, what we spent to create our business, we must make back with our customers to keep generating a profit, therefore we cannot sit here and make a living catering to everyone’s needs. It took Vera Wang a long time, to make her clothes affordable for her customers and u know what the sad part is I still see people buy her most expensive collection of clothing instead of the collection she sells in Kohl’s because Kohl’s is considered to be a low brand store. Maybe if there is enough Black fashion Designers in the Industry, meaning high end fashion not just urban. We could evolve and start a movement to lower our prices, but truth be told there are not a lot of high fashion Black designers in this industry.

chantel says:

June 18, 2009 at 11:58 am

I agree 100% with this article. But I want to comment that not only “black” designers should fall under scrutiny There are many designers who are not black who I feel don’t carter to middle class individuals. H&M seeks out designers to design exclusive lines for there stores there is a better question you should ask why hasn’t H&M asked these designers to design for them.

D-Ski says:

June 26, 2009 at 1:05 am

You know we would never ask Vivienne Westwood, Tom Ford or Karl Lagerfeld to make a diffusion line or even expect it from them. If you can’t afford it….then you can’t afford it!! Stop expecting people of color to do what you wouldn’t dare ask anyone else to do. When you can afford Tracy, Stephen or Eric Gaskins…..then go and shop to your hearts content, until then…..there are always sample sales.

Teresa says:

July 6, 2009 at 6:14 pm

Are you all for real? Did I just read a thread about “the have and have nots” in the African American community? We are genuinely in trouble when we can sit around and complain about who can and cannot afford a handbag or piece of clothing. If having a designer handbag or a designer piece of clothing is going to help you feel better about yourself, then you have other problems you need to spend your money on. The more we aim to be like our counterparts, the more screwed up we become. The American Dream is a nightmare people, and the sooner you wake up and realize that, the happier you will be without the material trappings of consumerism. Really, do you want people remember you because of the handbag you carried or the dress you wore? Stop trying to live beyond your means!

bposh says:

July 18, 2009 at 2:25 pm

This article is clearly lazy..

This is my understanding of what was said; we’re ecstatic that you’ve made it.. Now can you change your prices to better suit our life because we would like a hook up…

Further perpetuates the ideal that black people always want something to complain about.. White people who are not rich have prada and gucci not because they have a black card but because they look for sales. They go to Tory Burch sample sales, they sign up for Gucci’s twice a year sale where everything is 50% off.. Tracey Reese WILL HAVE A SALE! It’s really not that difficult; does not require a PHD, it’s not rocket science, you don’t need a masters. Be about it. Be on it.

You can not possibly knock a designer because YOUR pockets are out of reach…

MAKE THAT SHIT ACCESSIBLE TO YOU JUST AS EVERYONE ELSE.

There are plenty of stores(e.g. Loehmanns, Filenes, TJ Maxx) who sell designers such as Elie Tahari which you can find at Bloomingdales for double the price.

In this game it’s all about being educated.