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Perms Versus Naturals: The Black Hair Battle

Monday May 11, 2009 – By Janelle Harris

76527154When a girl turns 12 or 13, some families throw homegrown parties or big, elaborate, Super Sweet Sixteen-esque shindigs. In the Harris clan, the rites of passage for budding young women is permission to walk to the corner store with your girlfriends, carrying a pocketbook to church— and going to the salon to get your first perm.

It wasn’t just about getting your hair straightened, though. As far back as I could remember, some senior female relative had me and my cousins lined up in those hard-backed kitchen chairs, with a jar of Blue Magic on standby, for a one-on-one showdown with the hot comb in order to get spit-shined and spiffy for [insert name of holiday or special occasion]. We all came out with basically the same hairdo: half up in a ponytail, half down in the back with a big ol’ tight funnel of a bang smack dab in the middle of our foreheads. You knew a Harris girl a half a block away just from that super stiff church bang all balled up in the center of her dome like a brown Fruit Roll-up. We could hopscotch, double dutch, hide ‘n’ seek—that sturdy bang never once moved, dropped or shifted in the wind. Straight hair was nothing new. So getting a perm, to us anyway, wasn’t about achieving the illustrious look of white girl hair. It was about being almost grown enough to sit up in that hairdresser’s chair, shed those plaits and maze of barrettes, and rock an actual, honest-to-goodness hairstyle.

To me, hot combs and relaxers are part of Black culture. Like chitlins and hog maws and other residuals of our disenfranchisement, they can be looked down on as leftovers from years of oppression and marginalization. I get that.

Maybe it’s those kinds of fond memories that keep me from being completely repulsed by the idea of (and process for) having straightened hair. To me, hot combs and relaxers are part of Black culture. Like chitlins and hog maws and other residuals of our disenfranchisement, they can be looked down on as leftovers from years of oppression and marginalization. I get that. I get that our people were drilled with the deprecating idea that our hair isn’t beautiful, that “nappy” and “kinky” and “coarse” were all derogatory words thrown at our heads to drive home the ugliness we were supposed to feel, that in order for our locks to be considered “good” they had to lay flat and slick and smooth and tame (which, by the way, my hair was not and has never been, with or without a doggone perm). And I know some people unfortunately still feel like that. I could scream every time I hear someone—in 2009, now—imply that “pretty hair” is only the kind that moves fluidly when you shake your head around.

I’m so excited to see so many sisters shed their same ol’, same ol’ wraps and rollers sets and get creative with the crown of gorgeous hair that they were born with.

So I’m so excited to see so many sisters shed their same ol’, same ol’ wraps and rollers sets and get creative with the crown of gorgeous hair that they were born with. In fact, within the last five or so years, most of the ladies around me, from my mom to my sister to three of my best friends, have all gone natural, back to the way their hair was before six-to-eight-week touch-ups and purposely not scratching in fear of the sizzling burn that happens when chemicals seep into those itched spots. (Child, I’m cringing just at the thought of it.)

I don’t feel compelled to cut out my perm in order to prove my authenticity to or dedication for my Blackness.

At the same time, I don’t feel compelled to cut out my perm in order to prove my authenticity to or dedication for my Blackness. If I do grow it out—and I suspect I probably will, at some point—it won’t be for that reason because it’s about what’s in my head, not on it, that makes me a conscious sister. Once upon a time, I was in a graduate program in one of the most respected African American Studies departments in the country. Needless to say, all of the students were, on the outside anyway, super militant, all dishekis and “brother this” and “sista that”—and of course, capped off with all kinds of beautiful locs, afros and twists. I was the only person in the department with chemically processed hair (save the secretary, who made it quite clear that she was there to work, not start a revolution). I became an outcast of sorts because I was—at least in their minds—playing into the mental conditioning they were supposedly fighting so hard to reverse. We won’t talk about how Baby Afrika Bambaatta turned out to be shacking up with a white girl named Amy or how the power-to-the-people soul sistas talked about me, a fellow Black queen, every time I breathed oxygen. That was irrelevant. With my hair permed, I couldn’t really be down for the cause and to them, that made me a sellout.

After that experience, I became even more determined to be unapologetic for perming my tresses. I, like my hair, relaxed. Years later, I’m still perming, still trying to get past that mid-shoulder length, still going to the Dominican shop every other Saturday for a fresh wash and set and a deep condition. I am admittedly ready for a change, but it’s not because I’ve had some sudden revelation like relaxer, bad; natural hair, better. Sistas have made an art of changing their look—between weaves, twists, locs, braids, colors, texturizers, perms, cuts and design, we really should have an ongoing exhibit up in somebody’s museum. As a creative person, I think I’m running out of things to do with my hair the way it is now. But if and when I do decide to go natural, I will never assume that my decision has given me one up on the Black hand side.

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36 Comments – Add Yours

  1. Diedre Diedre says:

    You can’t tell if it’s natural by looking. I’m amused by your past classmates’ attitudes. With Oprah’s recent revelation that she straightens her natural hair without the aid of acids (that’s what I call relaxers), people are beginning to learn a little more about being natural-haired.

    Straight isn’t natural you say? Unless you (black women) wear free-form locks or wash n’ goes everyday, the appearance of your natural texture is altered in some way. Even that nice twist-out hairstyle isn’t exactly what you see when your hair is unaltered, is it?

    I think that unless you are hurting yourself (I consider using acid to relax hair pretty risky), you’re free to do what you choose. Of course, I don’t have to like it but I pick my battles when I choose an outfit or hairstyle everyday. I assume you can pick your own battles based on how you present yourself too.

  2. Such a waste fo time continuing this stupid hair battle.

  3. Tee Tee says:

    Such a great article! I feel the exact same way. I didn’t get a relaxer till I was 17..I know unheard of..LOL. I’m now going on the natural journey not because I hate the relaxer devil but because I think I can do more with my hair…plus I’m bored. Thanks for this great article from the otherside of the “lye” line

  4. Danielle Danielle says:

    I completely agree. I’ve been natural for going on 4 years, and it’s not some political decision. I did it initially to try something new. Now I’ve just learned to like it natural as much, if not more than I liked it when it was permed. Drives me crazy when natural women look down on, or think they are better than those with perms, and vice versa.

  5. Baba It Baba It says:

    What lies beneath, seems to be the only part that no one gets about going natural or keeping your hair permed. My sister is completely natural and I am all for perms but we do it based on how we feel about our style. I understand the detriment society has put on us but I agree that it is more than just chemically processed hair, it’s my compliment to an outfit, what I want to use to attract people to my face, or even away from my face. People of our nationality shouldn’t be judged, if anything we should be embraced because of our versatility.

  6. Joelle Joelle says:

    YES!!!!! This article is the Bomb!!! I totally understand and share the same sentiments!!! Thank you for being bold, keeping it real and calling out the hypocrites within our own culture who judge based on very exclusive ideals!!!

  7. I’ve had everything from a TWA,(teeny weeny Afro) to locks. I’ve had tracks sewn into my hair, (even without a perm). I’ve worn my permed hair curly. And my natural hair straight.

    I cut my locks after five years primarily because it was becoming more than just a hairstyle. It was a symbol and a way of life. And honestly? It just didn’t fit me anymore. And I felt like, so this is it? These ropes of hair just eventually hit the floor and I keep trying to find more and more ways to tie it up and out of my face and off my back? No thanks. I’m done.

    my two cents: I think every woman should rock their hair the way it naturally grows out of their heads for at least some point in her adult life. When I was eighteen and began the process, I could not keep my hands out of my hair. I was amazed at the corkscrews that were developing underneath. It had been twelve years since I’d felt my own unprocessed hair.

    There is something to be said for digging those hands up there and feeling the real you.

    I think the real issue here is our aversion to SHORT hair. Not natural hair. Most women with perms would totally go natural if they could wake up with a full head of natural hair.

    It’s the transition that scares folks. The first few months of the in-between styles and of course, the eventual hair cut that has to take place.

    I hope you do make the decision to go natural. And after that, I know a great place where you can get tracks added to your blown-out kinky hair for fun…

  8. Nikki Nikki says:

    Thank you so much for this article! I live in the south so I am definitley in the minority & these elitist like to sit on their high horse, judge & critic their peers for the most minute reason such as how I choose to wear my hair. I will eventually grow it out to its natural state but im not there yet. Im very secure in myself & I feel like as long as I confident & comfortable then it shouldn’t make or break anyone else.

  9. BrownBelle BrownBelle says:

    Thank you! It’s about time somebody stood up for the sisters who relax their hair. I get perms because I like being able to unwrap my hair and go instead of fighting to tame it as my hair eats the comb, lol

  10. Laquita Laquita says:

    Great article – it brought back memories of sitting in my grandmother’s kitchen getting my hair hot combed :o) What happened to those days when people waited for their girls to turn a certain age to perm their hair or at least give them an option on the matter, (I remember I had to beg for a perm and didn’t get one until I was in high school)? Nowadays, I see little girls under the age of 6 and 7 with perms.

  11. UKNaturals UKNaturals says:

    I love this article. I decided to be natural about 5 years ago, but it wasn’t because I thought that it would make me more of a ’sistah’. It was because I had my hair permed at 8 at could not remember what my natural hair looked like; and before that my hair was constantly hot combed. I always like the feel of my regrowth and wondered what my hair was really like in its natural state. Not to mention that I was tired of wrapping my hair each night, tired of not being able to itch my scalp when I was due for a touch-up and just tired of the look altogether. I wanted something different. So I cut off my hair and left it in its natural state. I love it. I love the different styles I can create or just playing with the texture. However that doesn’t mean that I think anyone that has a perm or weave hates their natural hair or isn’t a ’sistah’. As the author of this article said, black women have always been creative with their hair. It is an expression of their style and personality. We’ve all seen a straight or natural hairstyle and thought ‘that’s cute’ – that’s because we like versatility, we like creativeness, we like style. We need to stop looking for things that divide us, for a reason to not like another black women and focus on what makes us all sistah’s – like our strength, our beauty, our pride, our courage.

  12. Dnelly Dnelly says:

    Wonderful Article..

    As a natural I’m not in it for all the extra! I went natural because my hair was breaking off and damaged and I needed something different! I wanted my hair to be healthy and still be able to be managable. I love my different textures but I don’t knock anyone with a perm, weave, wig whateva! It’s all about doing you and I hate that people run around trying to get everyone to conform to what THEY feel is best!

  13. natural twists natural twists says:

    I identified with a lot of what you had to say here with the exception of the fondness towards the process. I have thick hair, which took a lot more time to get straightened, and I was never happy about that. But the final product made me feel pretty great. I also think it’s important to acknowledge that we are now living in a time where all or most natural hairstyles are generally viewed positively and non-threatening by society, as opposed to the 1970s. I can remember a time when that wasn’t the case, and people would make fun of natural hair; suggesting ways to deal with whatever it was that was going on, on top of your head. It seems we’ve come full circle or going in circles on this one…

  14. FANTASTIC article. I was just engaging someone over the internet who believes that every woman who straightens possesses a deep-seated hatred for themselves. Being a person that has worn it both ways (and periodically switches from one to the other), I find that notion insulting.

    Thank you for this. People should just do what they like and not judge others for doing the same.

  15. Harlem Chic Harlem Chic says:

    In the grand scheme of life it really shouldn’t matter how someone decides to style their hair. Hair is a personal choice and it really nobody’s business cept for the person rocking it. I’m a natural sister; but trust…just because someone’s natural doesn’t make them more authentic, have more integrity, or even love themselves more. That’s a bunch of mythological sista soldier hogwash.

    Erykah Badu said it best: “Every sister with a natural ain’t down with the cause and every sister with a perm ain’t down for the fall.

  16. Dot Dot says:

    It’s funny that you may say that because Tyra Banks is having a show on the issue of “good hair” vs “bad hair” tomorrow.

    Look, I’m all for people doing what ever they want with their hair, but something has to be said about those perms. Why are we doing them? Simply because its “easier” to manage? I’d like to believe that black women aren’t suppose to have long hair (that’s another issue). We are doing these perms for practicality but also conformity.

    If the white men didn’t control the media and have a unguided hand on the image of the women (all of them), the black hair industry wouldn’t exist.

    Again, I’m all about people doing their own thing and living their own lives but I also believe that we have to think beyond our actions. There are reasons why we do some things and the “I do it because I like it” excuse should be delved deeper. What’s the like about the “it”?

  17. Natalie Natalie says:

    Hi,

    Thank you for this article, it was needed. I have been wearing my hair natural for almost 3 yeras now and KNOW I will never relax my hair again. That said, I do not view women who relax their hair as any less “Black.” I do object to the reasoning of some sistas who see natural hair as a ‘phase’ or a ’statement’, natural hair is me and however you chose to wear your hair you must know who you are. Hair doesn’t make you, just like a book you need to crack it open to see the contents:)

  18. Donni Doree Donni Doree says:

    I love Clutch!!! I absolutely love this article! I hate being in the “ooh you got good hair” category because of my native american and black heritage.. because of my ultra straight/curly when wet hair, people assume that I am not “black” enough to know and appreciate ALL of my history!

  19. lilia lilia says:

    I catch more flack from ladies with permed hair than I ever did when I was permed. Looking bakc it seems untidy and damaged permed hair is considered better than natural locks any day. The questions range from ” so what are you going to do with your hair?”, or “so you’re not going to perm it ever again???” To be honest It pisses me off. I don’t ask people with some growth showing on their perms when they’ll cut ot off. I don’t really care what one does with their hair as long as it’s clean and healthy. My choice to go natural was not part of a fad or militant pro-blackness. I just want to be naturally me and I enjoy it. Just know for every nappy nazi you meet, there are armies of perm police. I will be happy the day all types of black hairstyles are be accepted by the mainstream and not used to make stupid pre-judgments.

  20. LaKeyshaF LaKeyshaF says:

    I went natural in my late 20’s simply because the perms were starting to really break my hair off. I had no intentions of starting a revolution or trying to be “more black” whatever that means.
    But I must say that due to random circumstances I HAD to stop pressing my natural hair. This is where the love affair began. (And no I dont have what people call “good hair”). But I learned an appreciation for my God-given natural hair that I never even thought possible.

    Everyone has the righ to choose how they will wear their hair. But we cannot pretend that these views are not held and passed along:

    1. Nappy/kinky=bad

    2. “Good hair” (which is straight/loose curl pattern whether short but especially if long) is revered

    3. Relaxers, though harmful chemical processes, are often deemed necessary to “tame our hair”, look professional, and is held up as the standard of beauty. (Isn’t is odd that we have accepted a standard of beauty that is the complete opposite of what we are?)

    Even though I had a nice length of permed hair and I would never have said “I want hair like a white girl” I had to admit that that had been the ultimate goal. Not to necessarily be that white girl…but to have long straight hair with lots of body and movement like hers. I had to admit that wearing our hair straight was more than just a hairstyle in our black community…it had deeper roots and deeper meaning.

    I don’t believe that woman with permed hair are any less “black” than those with natural hair. (And for the record I don’t express these views unless asked because some people get offended and that is not my intention.) But I do believe that there is a general enmity for our natural hair that is subtly perpetuated in our culture. And that we need to fight against this. I would love for us as a culture to get to a point where straightned hair IS just a style choice.

    But right now Can we really say that when almost 80% (random assumption) of black woman permanantly alter some cultural characteristic through harmful methods that it has nothing to do with the shame that has been attached to that characteristic for hundreds of years?

  21. lilia lilia says:

    Excuse my typos! :-*

  22. Nicole Nicole says:

    This is a great article.

    I made the transition from perm to natural in 2004 because I was convinced (and told) that perms were damaging my hair. Particularly the area in the back was experiencing breakage.

    So I went through the painstaking process(with the assistance of weave) for about a year thinking that my hair would be healthier and grow faster without a perm.

    Five years later of getting my hair pressed, I was recently told by my stylist that I am still experiencing breakage in the back and my mother finally remembered that the back of my head is my “weak spot”. The spot where your hair just won’t grow as well as in other areas sometimes triggered by stress, nutrition, or just plan nature.

    Even though my hair is healthy, it grew faster WITH a perm than without(which still surprises me).I am seriously thinking of getting a perm again. Avoiding the rain or exercise(sweat) or the hard labor of combing out and pressing my coarse, thick, brillo-pad like hair is getting old. And since the reason I originally stopped getting a perm has been negated…I figure what’s the point.

    But I would encourage black women to do what they believe is best for them. Don’t be guilted into giving up “the perm” by the natural hair police. You know your lifestyle and what is comfortable for you, not someone else.

  23. Samantha Samantha says:

    I get tired of the Natural hair vs. Relaxed hair discussion. A lot of black women love their perms so keep getting them. Natural hair will not work for anyone if they do not learn how to take care of their hair. Just like there are “Natural Hair Police” there are “Why Don’t You Get a Relaxer” police or “Why Don’t You Comb Your Hair or Do Something to It?” police. I think it’s pointless to tell black women that we need to stick together and stop putting each other down because it doesn’t seem to end. I was just talking to my stylist about this and the bottom line is that being Natural for almost 4 years in July was my choice. I don’t have to explain why my hair is all over my head or an afro or in twist or why I won’t loc it, etc. to anyone. I love the hair that God gave me just the way it is and if I have to fight with it and learn about it because everyone took the easy way out when I was growing up and badly damaged my hair with perms, then so be it. I will fight the fight and now my hair is longer than it has ever been when I had a perm.

    People who realize that it’s their choice to get a perm are completely right. It’s your choice but don’t look down your nose at anyone who is Natural either because we can all walk around feeling superior to the women who made the opposite choice or we can just get over ourselves and realize that like India.Arie said, “I am not my hair.” I made my choice, I love my choice, I swim when I won’t and never wear shower caps, I straighten my hair when I get bored with my kinks then I can go back to my curls when I miss them b/c I always do and this is what works for me. I won’t preach to anyone about what they need to do. They made their choice and I made my choice and I hope everyone is living a great life where they don’t have to constantly defend their choice.

    Happy Living!

  24. ericka ericka says:

    ditto with EVERYTHING LaKeyshaF said..bravo.bravo..well put, and very true whether we like it or not!

  25. Samantha Williams ShineGirl says:

    LaKeysha, this is Samantha under my new username, ShineGirl. :) I completely agree with you. Who am I to tell anyone that they are less black because of how they wear their hair? That’s silly. People always say I act white so apparently I am not as problack as some may think just because my hair is natural.

    However, I do think that a lot of black women perm their hair to fit into society and I think that’s sad. I sympathize with them because it can be difficult to always be the center of attention because my hair is a big, fat afro. But I just finally got to the point where I was like, “To heck with them.” I’m damaging my hair to keep all the white people and other races happy. And that was the honest truth. The sad thing was, I was straightening my hair to keep my own family happy too because they were some of the worst critics.

    I want black women to love themselves and perm their hair because they want to, not because they are worried about what Tom, Dick and Jane will say about their hair if they DON’T perm it. And, personally, I have to admit that relaxing black hair is EXTREMELY damaging to our hair. People may not believe it because of the texture but black people have the most fragile type of hair which is why our hair doesn’t grow as long as other races. Our hair dries out more while other races have to wash their hair just to keep the natural oils that they naturally produce at bay. When our hair dries out, it breaks off, then we have split ends and some of us try to hold on to those split ends to have as much length as possible, which is even worse for our hair. The list goes on and on. I have educated many black women, including my mom, women in my salon that had lost most of their hair and complete strangers because I want to help black women understand why their hair is damaged and won’t grow. I am not doing it to be mean or to act like I am better than anyone. I do feel proud of myself for educating myself and making a smart choice for my hair.

    I guess it’s the way women talk to each other but we don’t have to be so on the defensive and maybe we should listen to each other. NO matter how you say it, a relaxer is a chemical that breaks the pattern of our natural curl down. When I first read that, it just didn’t sound good. I do plan on having a professional career, I used to be in the Army and I know what styles I can wear to keep my hair looking professional just like any other race would have to adjust their hair to be able to work in corporate America and not look a hot mess. Like anything new, wearing natural hair just takes time, education and patience.

    But at the end of the day, everyone can do whatever they want to do and they are going to continue to do what they want to do. Doing what works for them is key. Stating the facts are just the facts. If people know the facts and still decide to get a relaxer then that is their choice and I won’t judge them for it. But I hope that black women will one day really own their choice and not put chemicals (and weaves and too-tight braids) in their hair because of society. Fight to have the healthiest hair you can have and at least educate yourself about how to have healthy black hair.

    Take care, everyone! :)

  26. harlembflyy harlembflyy says:

    a wonderul article! being natural doesn’t have to define your blackness but you bring up great points. well written!

  27. Tiffany W. Tiffany W. says:

    Let the church say, “Amen”. I’m bored of relaxers, and just find myself getting them out of habit. Going natural, I’m still on the fence with. It’s a serious haircut. Any woman struggles with that, regardless of race. I’ll make a decision sometime in this decade.

  28. Superstarr Superstarr says:

    Natural 09….My husband did my B/C I just grew tired of putting LYE into my Brain and no,it ain’t for everybody but at the end of the day, you either take the Blue pill or the Red one.

  29. Bianca Bianca says:

    Great article. There is nothing wrong with relaxed hair. I am natural, however I feel that each beautiful Black woman should do what feels natural and beautiful that represents how they feel. Natural does not prove one’s “blackness” nor defines it. I wear my hair natural because it is gorgeous, healthy, and very chic. Each woman should take pride in how she looks regardless of hair texture. Do what feels comfortable to you.

  30. Exactly. Many of us use relaxed vs. “natural” as a political platform or simply as a way of establishing their supposed superiority. Hair is hair no more, no less. And my hair is my own so why does anybody else care what I do with it?

  31. liyah liyah says:

    Relaxed hair is weaker than natural hair and is prone to more breakage. That’s why is rare to see black women, most who use relaxers, with real hair past bra strap length. That’s probably why you can’t grow your hair past that mid-shoulder length, which is a length that a person with healthy hair can achieve with a year or less.
    Wearing natural hair is more about stronger hair health, rather than making a political statement. Majority of black women wear those weaves and wigs because they have serious hair damage and are trying to cover up what is beneath. Black women have the most unhealthy hair practices and that shows when you go out in public and you see other races with longer and healthier hair.

  32. Lauren Lauren says:

    Liyah – I don’t all the way agree with you. As a past natural for 4 years and now proud member of the weave club, my hair is more healthy because it’s braided up underneath and protected. Everyone I know with weave has very healthy and long real hair underneath and wear them because they like the way they look with one or to give their hair a break. Women wearing weave because of damaged hair or problems is a BIG misconception and assumption.

    As for growth, my hair grows faster and better (this is me) with a relaxer opposed to when I was natural.

  33. Vanessa Vanessa says:

    Great Article! Seriously it’s your hair do what you want.

  34. Gerty W Gerty W says:

    Well written article! I truly believe what makes Black women unique is our versatility. We can rock lace front wigs, locs or even a bald fade and look wonderful doing it. I personally think your hair is a reflection of how you feel and what you believe at the time.

    I too have had every hairstyle. Hot comb, beaded braids, wraps, tracks, microbraids texturizer you name it I have done it I recently started locs. This suits me best because I am not a high maitenence girl, hate spending hours in the shop and sleeping uncomfortably to keep my hair nice (it never worked for me anyway: my hair would be a mess the next day!) And I get way more compliments now than I ever did with a perm.

    But to think that every Black woman has to rock a Natural is as narrow minded as saying that all soft hair is “good hair”. I say do what works for you!

  35. lexibugg lexibugg says:

    i don’t care about what other do to their own hair, we, as a community have bigger and more urgent issues to address. sooooo, don’t say anything about my choice to let my n(h)appy, healthy, hair growing coiled, spiraled and untamed down my back, and i wont mention, your stiff, broken, frayed, thin, balding hair, or scabby scalp. we need to agree to disagree on our own personal grooming habits and move forward, because we are in a decades long stall pattern as a people and all this hair texture, skin tone sh*t is exactly why i have to distance myself.

  36. hispanic guy hispanic guy says:

    Im a guy an I could relate becuase I feel like i have to be taller
    because mainstream makes this look desirable and I have low self esteem cause of it but when im home alone it doesn’t bother me one bit, doesn’t mean I should put on high heels and walk in public becuase any height I get from it would be short lived(and uncomfotable to walk around 24/7) in plus everyone know its obviously not my real height so why go through the trouble and be something im not?likewise why go through the burning,chemicals,pain, just to have straight hair like other races, If everyone had straight hair like the orientals where would the diversity be? This has a lot to do with self esteem and confidence. This is just my opinion JUST TO BE CLEAR ON THIS SENSITIVE SUBJECT NO ONE HAS A RIGHT ANSWER BECUASE EVERYONES DIFFERENT AND DOES THINGS FOR DIFFERENT REASONS ONE PERSONS ANSWER MAY APPLY TO ONE BUT NOT ANOTHER!

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