After receiving a formal education at the historic Clark Atlanta University, Glamo ventured to New York City, determined to make a name for himself in the industry. Still very young, yet extremely focused, he has been able to gain access to some of fashion’s heavy hitters. He’s worked with top design houses, modeling agencies, hair stylists, make-up artists, and celebrities. Most recently, Glamo appeared on MTV’s “Made: Model House” and coached three inexperienced modeling hopefuls, one of whom ended up receiving a one-year contract. His witty, no-nonsense attitude pushed the girls to their limits. But they all left the competition with new looks, revamped wardrobes, and extraordinary self-confidence that had been more than lacking before.

As the founder and creative force behind The Glamore Deluxe Company, Glamo continues to extend his unique style, vision, and voice to top clients in fashion and entertainment. The firm offers such services as wardrobe styling, image consulting, runway coaching, and event production, just to name a few. Recently, we sat down with the fashion extraordinaire, who gave us more insight into his work.

Clutch: You have been called a fashion industry prodigy by colleagues, mentors and peers. How did you get your start in the industry?
Glamo: I got my start in the industry producing and directing fashion shows in college and from there things just kind of snow balled. I realized if I was coming up with the concept of the show then I wanted a certain type of walk. If I had control over the walk then I wanted to style the show as well. So that was the making of Glamo.

Clutch: Who are your major influences and what inspires you to create?
Glamo: Influences that inspire me to create are found heavily in the arts. Movies, paintings, music, and people. I am a big people watcher. It’s funny the many things, looks, and characters that you can create for people just by watching them when they are not suspecting.

Clutch: Fashion is constantly changing and evolving. How do you stay ahead of the game?
Glamo: I would like to think that I stay ahead of the game by being a busy body. I am always at some designers’ preview showing or looking for the next and the best; never afraid to see what’s new and hot or what one thinks will be. All while keeping abreast with the established brands/designers to see how they are reinventing themselves. Fashion may always be at a constant change but when something is a staple or classic honey it ain’t going anywhere, lol!

Clutch: Through your company The Glamore Deluxe you are able to service not only the fashion industry but the entertainment industry as well. What are some of the biggest challenges you face in both industries?
Glamo: The biggest challenge that I face from both industries is that people cannot see how it is possible for one person to be multi talented. You can only be known for this or that or boundaries are set on your potential. It takes for me to really get out here and show people on a daily basis that I cannot and will not be placed into just one box. There is enough of me to go around.

Clutch: Who do you think will stand out from our generation as a style icon?
Glamo: Its no shade behind this but one young lady that I think will stand out and is well on her way is Ms.Rhianna. I was not a fan of her look for the first 3 singles or so. But now…that woman wears me out with her fashion! She wears the clothes not vice versa — I get life from her!

Clutch: You wear many hats as a stylist, creative director, and the owner of a company. How do you balance it all?
Glamo: Yes indeed I do wear several hats with The Glamore Deluxe Company. I believe that the balance comes from the relationship that I build with my clients and my creativity. Creative people will never run out of ideas and when I take on the responsibility of creating for each client they and their major possibilities become my inspiration, therefore its no need to balance. I am juiced up for them!

Clutch: With every new project there are always new sets of obstacles to face. How do you prepare yourself for these challenges when taking on something new?
Glamo: I prepare my self for challenges when taking on something new the old fashion way…prayer! Prayer is the one thing that has always worked for me. Sometimes I need a little more patience to deal with a particular client. Other times I may need more energy to deal with others. Either way I am never afraid to take a moment and send one up.

Clutch: Style and beauty is often in the eye of the beholder. How would you define style?
Glamo: Style is one’s personal understanding of self. Its about knowing what you are going for when you are getting dressed, what works best for you. Just because they are making it does not mean that they are making it for you. And I am not just talking size. I am talking about color, shapes, and the full monte honey. People who grasp this to me are “stylish.”

Clutch: What trends do you predict to be big for the upcoming season?
Glamo: I predict that the one-sie will be big in the spring. I feel like just about every major designer gave their variation. And the high waisted short shorts are another trend that I am sure we will see a lot of in the spring.

Intro by: Chelsea Smith

Clutch: When did you know that you were destined for a career in photography?
Piper Carter: I knew I would be successful in Photography when I was in my first photo class at Howard University and watched my first print develop. It felt so right. I felt like I was giving birth to something great! It was a picture of my Homeboys hanging out in front of “The Towers”: Apartment-style dorms. I recognized the shape of a triangle they created lined up sitting on the railing. My Professor: Jarvis Grant encouraged me that it was one of the best images he had seen from a beginner and that they style and careful organization of the image was something that was intuitive to me. He put me on to Gordon Parks. I was hooked! I knew that this was something I could do for the rest of my life.

Clutch: Is there anything that you wish you would’ve known before you got started?
Piper Carter: I do not believe in regrets or wishing things were different. I’m a firm believer that things are as they should be: in Diving Order. I’ve had many trials and tribulations but I know that they were all a part of the learning process and a part of the plan that has brought me to today.

Clutch: You were one of the contestants on the reality series The Shot. What (if any) valuable lessons did you learn from that experience?
Piper Carter:
I learned that I am stronger than I believed myself to be. I learned that people see me as a threat. I learned that Television is not Reality. I learned to trust my instincts. I learned that as long as I give my all I have already succeeded. And I learned that some people appear to be cool but are really snakes. I also learned to always put my best foot forward and the most important thing I learned is to be ready so I don’t need to get ready.

Clutch: Do you feel like being on the show has helped your career?
Piper Carter: I feel that being on the show helped raise awareness about me and as a result of the exposure I have been able to leverage my worth much better. So, I will say yes in that sense it did help my career.

Clutch: What do you love the most about your job?
Piper Carter: My favorite part of Being a Fashion Photographer is making people feel good about themselves. I love it when people see my beautiful images and get excited and inspired.
It’s very rewarding to give a model or subject a good-bye hug and they smile and say they can’t wait to see the finished product.

Clutch: What would you say has been your most memorable assignment?
Piper Carter: My most memorable assignment was having the pleasure of shooting Erykah Badu for Spin Magazine. Everyone had told me all these stories that she was difficult and mean and horrible to work with.
First of all, this is not true. She is truly Amazing! She’s naturally beautiful inside and out. and she embodies all the attributes of a Goddess. I told the magazine I believed her to be an iconographic figure such as Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe and I convinced them to let me shoot her in two formats: 8×10 and 6×7. It was very expensive because basically I was shooting her twice.
I used the 6×7 to “warm her up” because the 8×10 is very large and slow (you can only shoot one 8×10 frame at a time, the whole process takes 2 minutes per shot) and I didn’t want to lose her attention. So once I was happy with the image I captured it with the 8×10.: 10 times= 10 different poses.

But I knew I wanted to immortalize her with the 8×10 camera: a true Photographer’s weapon of choice. And I made sure her personal designers dressed her: Epperson made her these tan distressed leather gloves with the fingers cut out. I shot her in a cream dress by Alissa Jimanez against a coffee colored background. It’s completely monochromatic with her smooth caramel skin. As a matter of fact, Vibe Magazine bought the image for their Women in Hip Hop book.

Clutch: Describe your dream photo shoot?
Piper Carter: Hmmm…well my dream client is Italian Vogue. My dream shoot is one with unlimited budget.
I have so many ideas it’s hard to choose just one. But definitely I choose the model, the location, the clothes, and my team. Oh, and I get paid on time.

Clutch: Is there anyone that you would love to collaborate with?
Piper Carter: Well where do I begin? As long as I’m sending wishes out to the Universe: Patti Wilson, Damon (Kelis’ Stylist), Brana Wolf, and Pat McGraff.

Clutch: There’s been a lot of conversation about the model blackout on high fashion runways and print publications. Does the same lack of representation of black talent exist behind the camera as well?
Piper Carter: Well, I challenge you to name all the Black Fashion Photographers through history up until today. (We’re talking fashion now not fine art, nor portraiture). You will find that list is even shorter than the models. If I’m not mistaken there are two: Melanie McDaniels and Marc Baptiste.

Clutch: What skills are needed for someone to be on top of their game in your field of work?
Piper Carter: To be quite honest there is no formula for success in this business. It’s all about relationships: who you know. But, I will say you have a better chance if you are smart and think outside the box. Having access to top of the line equipment, and great retouching and printing skills is definitely a plus. And if you have a flexible personality, are a good listener, pay attention to detail, are careful with composition, and can satisfy deadlines there is hope.

Clutch: Do you have any words of wisdom for aspiring photographers?
Piper Carter: I’d say shoot everyday, retouch everyday, become sensitive to light, or the lack of light, go to exhibitions, read tech magazines, show your work to people, and become an expert at what you do. don’t take no for an answer. No may mean “not right now”. and always have new work so when you see an art director in 3 months they can see what you’ve been up to. that no may just become a “Hell Yeah! why did we not hire you before?”

Clutch: So what’s up next for you Piper?
Piper Carter: For me now I’m planning a relaunch of myself as a brand in Sept: new website, new images, I’ve added video to my repertoire. It’s all in the works: I’m in the lab as we speak.

Clutch: Do you have any future plans or projects that you can tell us about?
Piper Carter: Be on the lookout in the fall for the new Vanilla Star jeans campaign featuring Nastia Liukin (four-time all-around U.S. National Champion in artistic gymnastics) and Kate Voegele (Interscope Records). And for two of my images in the Fall issue of Trace Magazine.

For more information on Piper Carter please visit www.pipercarter.com

Q: So Alexis, you did your first ever runway show, the debut of the Ghita line, last September. What was that experience like?
It was my first fashion show, but I wasn’t nervous. I felt like I put forth a really good effort for what I had to work with. I just rolled with it and it was really fun and exciting working with Mark Seliger. I thought that was a huge honor for the first time around, so I’m just looking forward to having more shows and getting better and better.

Q: You seem to have a very strong design point of view. Would you say that Ghita is a reflection of your personal style or who do you imagine wearing your clothing?
Well, for right now most of my influences are my friends. Most of my friends are either stylists or designers who are involved with fashion in some way. A lot of pieces in my collection are made with a specific person in mind, but we all have individual styles so I just try to make clothing that will compliment everyone’s figure and try to get a different point of view other than just what I like—even though I ultimately end up liking everything that I make.

Q: What are you currently inspired by?
I just finished Fall ‘08 so now I’m working on having another fashion show in September for spring; the way fashion is right now there are so many different things going on. There’s a rock influence, there’s a religious influence, there’s a hippie influence. So that’s what I’m going to incorporate for spring next season, these mini collections that pick up on all of the different trends.

Q: You attended the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in L.A. and now you’ve started your own line. We always see photos of you at all the major fashion the shows. Is it safe to say that fashion has always been something that you’ve loved?
Yes, I’ve always loved it and it’s been the only thing that I’ve ever wanted to do. I was lucky enough to make it happen.

Q: Since you are known for being so stylish, do you feel any additional pressure in your role as a designer? Do you feel like people expect more from you and do you welcome that challenge?Yeah, I welcome the challenge, but I don’t put too much pressure on myself. I continue to wear what I like, wear what’s flattering and have fun while doing it. If I put too much pressure on myself then it becomes not fun anymore. I just like to have fun with it and be experimental and not be afraid to make mistakes.

Q: We of course love your personal style and you always seem to be so effortlessly put together. One of our readers described your style as “immaculate”. Can you share a bit about your favorite designers and shopping destinations?
Awwww. Oh yeah! Well, my favorite designer is Ricardo Tisci, he’s a designer for Givenchy. I love Nicolas Ghesquiere, he’s a designer for Balenciaga and I love Alber Elbaz, he’s a designer for Lanvin. Those are my favorite designers right now. I’m just so impressed with how focused their designs are and how much effort goes into it. As far as shopping, I’ll usually hit up stores like H&M and Zara. I think it’s really important to have nice shoes, so I like to splurge on shoes and handbags. Neiman Marcus in one of my favorite stores. I love Balmaine and Colette in Paris.

Q: What are a few of your fashion and beauty must haves? What are things that you don’t like to leave the house without?
A great fitting pair of jeans. I’m aways cold, so I like to keep a scarf with me which is cool because scarves are in right now. Lipgloss and water are also good things to have on hand.

Q: It seems like you have a lot going on in your office today. So what is a typical day like for you? Or is there any such thing as a typical day?
It’s always different, but my day generally involves coming in checking on our accounts to make sure that our shipments are out, make sure that we’re getting paid, working on sourcing new fabrics daily while running back and forth to the grader and patternmaker. Those things generally remain the same everyday.

Q: What is your ultimate goal for the line? Do you plan on expanding into other product categories? What can we expect from Ghita for upcoming seasons?
Well, starting with spring ‘09 I’m expanding to jumpsuits, shorts and pants for more of a full line as opposed to a dress line. I think the dress line was a good way to start and get recognition because a lot of people don’t just have a dress line. Also, being an influential designer is a major goal.

Q: So when you’re not busy designing what are some of the things you like to do?
I love the Food Network. I’m always watching the Food Network, but that’s a whole separate thing! I think that could be my next career, to be a Chef. I like to spend time with my son and the people I love. I like to go to the movies, go the beach, ride bikes . . . that kind of stuff.

Q: You seem to have a really good balance within all of the different aspects of your life. How have you managed to achieve that?
You know, you just have to take it one day and situation at a time. You have to devote as much time to something when you’re in that moment and don’t worry about the rest. Try not to get tired and discouraged and maintain a positive attitude. That’s really important.

Q: Ok. One last question, so you’re headed out for a night on the town with the girls or whomever, what’s in your fabulous Clutch? Hmm. Great lipgloss and my I.D.

For more information on Alexis and Ghita please visit www. ghitafashion.com

Constance White, the ever poised and witty Style Director for eBay, definitely knows a thing or two about fashion and we were beyond thrilled to interview her for this month’s edition of “The Questions.” Read on to get this industry veteran’s take on what’s now, new and next in fashion.

Q: What made you decide to pursue a career in fashion journalism?
When I graduated from college, my twin loves were music and fashion and I didn’t want to leave NYC, if I could avoid it. I applied to both WWD and Billboard for jobs. WWD called me first, thank goodness, or I might now be writing about Amy Winehouse’s derivative music, instead of her influential eye makeup.

Q: What do you feel has been the key to your success?
Focus, faith in myself, faith in Jah, love of what I do, and being open to assistance, which is another way of saying “humility.”

Q: eBay has revolutionized the way people shop on-line. Tell us a bit about your role as Style Director for the site.
eBay is the most visited fashion site on the Internet, according to NET/Nielsen ratings. What I do is ensure that it continues to remain that way. My job is to remind shoppers looking for great fashion to think about and come to eBay. I do that in a number of ways, including educating the public about shopping on eBay and fashion trends. I also create style content (see our new INsider blog here) for eBay. Further, I recommend and develop strategic alliances (most recently, 7th on Sale) in the area of style. I also serve as eBay’s spokesperson on style and develop TV segments where we showcase great eBay fashion finds.

Q: As an industry veteran do you ever feel like you’ve seen it all? What still excites you about the business?
I don’t ever feel like I’ve seen it all; but I have seen a hell of a lot. I live and breathe by the hope that on any given day, I’m potentially going to see something new. I’m always excited about seeing a new fashion talent develop, whether it’s a designer with a fresh eye or an editor of a magazine who is making pages pop. Now there are so many new and exciting things happening on the Internet, as talent gravitates toward that medium.

Q: How would you describe your personal style?
Conservatively fashionable.

Q: Do you have any personal style heroes or icons?
Love Diana Ross, Nina Simone, Rita Marley, and Tina Chow. I love men who are stylish and take some chances, because men in their suits can be so boring sometimes.

Q: What do you feel is the next big trend in fashion?
If you mean on a macro level, I’m not sure what it will be, but it has to be something futuristic because right now we are in the middle of a huge fashion redux where designers are recycling every era.

Q: Are there any designers, established or emerging, that you are particularly impressed with?
My list, while not complete, includes: Jean Paul Gaultier, Nicolas Ghesquière, Alexander McQueen, Stephen Burrows. Proenza Schouler, Jean Colonna, Lola Faturoti. For newer designers, I’m watching Chris Benz and Duro Olowu.

Chris Benz

Proenza Schouler

Alexander McQueen

Q: I read a past interview where you said, “There’s still a prejudice and a lack of sophistication about seeing a black person as a gatekeeper of style.” Do you still feel that this is true?
I have four words for you: LeBron James Vogue cover.

Q: What (if anything) do you think can be done to effect the lack of diversity on the runway or in the industry period?
More diversity behind the scenes will help. In addition, as the world goes, so does the fashion industry. As diversity becomes a way of life generally, e.g. a female president or a Black president, it will impact fashion too.

Q: Do you have any words of wisdom for others who want to pursue a career in fashion?
Be focused, network, get advice from everybody, get educated—not only formally, but learn the language of fashion, be open.

Q: Kim, what made you decide to write this book?
The publisher that I approached had a different series of career diary books and I noticed that they didn’t have anything regarding careers as a fashion stylist. So, I approached them with the idea and they really liked it. Another reason that I decided to write the book was that when I first started I really didn’t have a mentor or anyone that really gave me a chance to learn the business. Everything I learned was from trial and error and just researching. I had so many people that would find me via MySpace or people would call me wanting to know more about the fashion industry. I wanted to help people understand the reality of what it’s like to work in the industry and this book serves as more of a reference guide.

Q: Tell us a little about yourself and how you got involved in the industry.
I started at this when I was 19. I’ve been studying fashion since high school when I was taking visual and fashion merchandising classes. I always wanted to be involved in fashion. I started out doing window displays and I wanted to put my fashion ideas on people for the world to see. I knew fashion would be a good outlet for me. I went on to college and got a degree in fashion merchandising and marketing, and through research I realized that I wanted to get involved in fashion styling. I ended up obtaining an internship at a modeling agency by talking to the owner. That’s how everything really got started. I worked with various photographers in Nashville and was supposed to end up moving to L.A., but every time I got ready to move it didn’t work out for me and something crazy would happen. So my mom suggested that I move to Atlanta and I said no, but it turns out that I’ve been able to build a base for myself here. So I ended up moving to Atlanta, building a name for myself, getting my name out there working with different photographers and artists.

Q: In Career Diary of a Fashion Stylist, you give a very detailed account of your daily activities and there seems to be a lot of variation in what your work entails. So what would you say a typical day is like for you or is there any such thing as a “typical” day?
A typical day for me starts around 9 a.m.; checking emails, returning calls, or doing research on-line at Style.com or Women’s Wear Daily to see the latest fashion trends. I’m usually getting my portfolio and marketing materials together to show people for freelance work. I also network and meet with designers and clients throughout the day.

Q: What characteristics do you feel are necessary to succeed as a stylist?
You have to have and eye for detail, a good fashion sense, and a very thick skin because you have to learn how to be able to hear people tell you “no” and learn how to accept rejection. It’s a very competitive and political field. Also, you need ambition, the ability to be optimistic and focused with your eye on the prize. You also need to be very organized in order to stay on top of things, be up on fashion trends and be aware of how fashion is changing by reading magazines and other fashion publications.

Q: What’s one thing you wish you had known before you got involved in the industry?
That it was going to take so long (we both laugh), and that it takes a lot of money; well it’s not like you need a large amount to start a company, but you definitely need to have your finances in order to run a business. Whether it’s for your portfolio, mailing things out, or getting business cards; that all takes money. I wish I would have known how political and competitive the field was. I didn’t know how it was going to be. It’s going on ten years for me, and I’ve been in Atlanta for five of those years and I’m finally starting to get my clientèle together the way that I want it to be. I’m finally getting my name out. I just didn’t think that it would take THAT long to get my name out there and for people to start respecting what I’m doing.

Q: In the book you maintain such a positive attitude as you chronicle your journey. Was there ever a time where you felt like giving up? If so, how did you get through it?
I feel like giving up everyday. Well, at least once a week. It gets really frustrating. I just rely on my personal strength, God and my family and friends to support me. What keeps me going is that I have so much time invested in this and I have come too far to give it all up now. If I was going to give up it should have been a long time ago, but this is my dream so I have to keep going. There are days though where I do feel like, I just don’t want to do this anymore.

Q: What do you think people will walk away with after they read your book?
I think they’ll have a better understanding of the reality of what goes on behind the scenes of being a fashion stylist. It’s a thirty day diary so it’s very realistic. I’m very detailed in describing what I do on a daily basis; you get to see the problems I deal with and the lessons I learn each day, which will be helpful to others that run into the same situation. People who aren’t familiar with certain industry aspects will walk away with knowledge. I’ve included a glossary in the book explaining key fashion terms. Also, I think people will be motivated and inspired.

Q: We always hear about stylists and their magic tool kit. Do you have one stylist trick-of-the-trade that all women should know or could benefit from?
I would suggest that women look into Spanx. They give such a slimming effect. Also, you don’t have to worry about panty lines showing in your nice fitted jeans or sweater dresses. It just makes you look toned and slim. Great accessories are another thing every woman should have. If you have some really hot accessories, like a nice necklace or bracelet, it can totally take something simple like a tank top and jeans and make it look really amazing.

Q: What are a few of your fashion must-haves for spring/summer?
Definitely color! Bright and vibrant colors like orange, pink and even blue. A great summer dress is a must, along with a nice pair of peep toe shoes or sandals.

Q: So Kim, If we were to look in your clutch right now, what would we find?
My leather planner, sunglasses, and my makeup bag.

Q: So what’s up next for you? Can you share any future plans with us?
I’m working on getting more A-list clients, which is very important to me right now. I’m also in the process of looking for an agent as well. I’m working with Nina’s couture. She’s really hot so be on the look out for that. I’m just working on taking my career to the next level. I think that this book is a great start for me, it puts me into a different category with other stylists who are also published authors.

For more info on Kim Maxwell, please visit www.dripbook.com/stylesbymaxx or www.myspace.com/stylesbymaxx

Photo Credits: Kim’s photo by Hannibal Matthews. Book cover by Drexina Nelson

You may recognize fashion designer Zulema Griffin from Project Runway Season 2, but you’ll remember her for her unique design aesthetic and her vision to change the way we view fashion. Clutch had an in depth discussion with Zulema on various topics ranging from the current state of affairs in fashion to defining life and careers on your own terms. This interview is recommended reading for anyone who wants to learn something that they don’t teach you in fashion school.

Q: What have you been up to since the days of Project Runway?
I’ve been busy showing my collections and working on my line.

Q: What would you like our readers to know about you? I’m a Ready-to-Wear fashion designer. I’m looking forward to growing and doing really creative things with the fashion medium. I think there’s so much room for growth A lot of people have grown weary of the classic fashion show. I’m really interested in being a pioneer in the industry in the sense of how they’re shown and viewed.

Q: You’ve been very resourceful in the manner with which you’ve chosen to show your work. For example, you debuted your fall collection via Youtube. Why did you decide to stray from the traditional runway fashion show format? Actually, It’s for several reasons. One, If you can’t get A-list celebrities, B-list celebrities won’t even cut it anymore, in the front row no one will attend your show. Fashion shows are actually really for major players and I’ll tell you why. The way fashion shows work is that they’re about instant gratification and an extension of the market place. You have the fashion show, you make the paper, they hear about your name they go in the store and they purchase. If you don’t have major distribution of your line it becomes an ineffective medium for you. I chose to do Youtube because it’s a democratic forum, everyone sees the clothes. It’s not necessarily dependent upon the news media to get your clothes out there. Youtube leaves it up to the audience to decide so they can reach out to purchase your items. That’s why I’m doing shows online and trying to use a technology medium to make it accessible to everyone.

Q: I admire how you’ve decided to show your work on your own terms, but do you feel like that’s helping or hindering your career? I feel like it can only help. The fact of the matter is that people are usually afraid when you introduce new things. I heard from several sources that the people from 7th on Sixth weren’t very happy about me doing the show. They were very vocal about their anger actually in a very entitled, very snobbish way, saying “What in the hell does she think she’s doing? This is not going to work.” And I say that’s ridiculous because technology is really pushing fashion, most fashion shows are on-line within 2 hours. The fashion industry has set up a very good thing for themselves and they’ve set up a such community where they can keep large numbers of people out of the industry while allowing a very select few in. I’m not complaining about the system because I love the fashion industry, I love fashion, and I love designing clothes. When it’s your magazine and your forum, you can do what you want to do, because you’re not stop me from doing what I need to do to get myself out there. However, You can’t ignore the fact that there’s a disparity based on race and various other factors in the fashion community. I can’t complain and say, “Oh well, Vogue they won’t let me in” because they can do what they want to do. I’m just happy that I was born during a time where I have technology on my side and I can get myself out there. And that’s exactly why I did my Youtube show.

Q: Can we talk a bit about your fall collection? (Zulema interrupts) “You mean what does it mean?” (We laugh)
Me: Exactly. Please share your vision for the collection! Well, actually my fall collection is loosely based on the idea of the church fashion show. During the Christmas holiday my mom passed and I was going to do a church fashion show in a church, reminiscent of the Ebony fashion shoot. The fact is, when this whole black model controversy came about and there was a time when black people couldn’t even be in the fashion industry and people don’t even realize that it wasn’t until the 70’s that you even saw black people in a fashion industry. That wasn’t even that long ago. That’s like one generation ago. I just kept saying to myself what did black people do before that. That’s when I started doing my research and came up with the idea for the church fashion show. That was originally what I was going to do and then my mom passed and then a lot of things came up, like money issues and I could no longer do the show. Then I remembered how my mom was and she always pushed that you have to keep going, life is for the living. My mom would want me to go on and be successful. Mind you, I put it all together in 2 ½ weeks because I spent most of my time crying, upset and depressed in bed and I was thinking that my mother wouldn’t want me to be this way, she would be so disappointed to look down on me and see me depressed like that. So, I just got up and did it. At the time I had a different idea on life and church. I remembered that I always loved the painting, Funeral Procession, by Ellis Wilson with the color blocking of black and white and the brown skin with an orange sky. That painting is actually what inspired me to do the collection in that manner.

Q: What moves you as a designer? People. I love walking down the street and looking at people, seeing people well dressed. I even like to see people badly dressed. I actually learn more when I see people dressed badly than I do when people are well dressed. You always learn new ideas. I find that even in the worst dressed people, there’s a good idea in there. Be it for proportion or color, there’s an idea in badly done fashion. So I just always try to keep my mind open.

Q: Do you have any personal style icons?
Yes, quite a few. I love Madeline Vionett. I love the spirit of Willi Smith and what he was able to do. He’s quite the pioneer, I read an article about him a long time ago and that actually gave me the idea to do a Youtube show. Willi Smith was actually the first person to do a videotape of his show! These days it’s so common to do a video of your show and send it to editors, but nobody was doing that before Willi Smith. He took a VHS tape popped it in, recorded his models wearing his clothes in front of brick walls and fire hydrants and then sent them to the editors to get their attention. To this day, he’s still the most successful black fashion designer. I love Balenciaga and the great Jean Paul Gaultier. Yves St. Laurent is eternal; I love his classic effortlessness. There’s such an ease to everything he did.

Q: How would you describe your personal style? My aesthetic is a clash of two worlds, based on what I saw as a little girl. I didn’t grow up in the projects, but I grew up in the hood. I was one of those girls that grew up in a really nice apartment complex, but it was surrounded by the hood. I am very much attracted to geometric shapes, because those types of buildings are always constructed in those cookie cutter squares in mapped out calculated spaces. I absorbed a lot from that in the sense that I’m very specific and structured in how I do things…. The color palettes from looking at graffiti on the trains as a little girl, I remember loving that so much. That’s what inspires me in fashion all of the time. That sort of juxtaposition of efficiency of space, color splatters, and then just screw it all up by throwing something on top of it.

Q: You went from modeling to costume design to fashion design. Were any of the transitions hard for you or was it more like a natural progression? I’m still a costume designer, I’m still in the union! As a costume designer the transition is usually difficult. Mine wasn’t because I did something, and this is the only time that I will briefly talk about Project Runway, Project Runway helped me make that bridge, because it’s almost an impossible bridge to make from costume design to fashion design. You rarely hear about a costume designer who’s made that transition because those two worlds rarely cross. Project Runway helped me do it seamlessly because I was on a national forum. People only really knew me as a designer and not a costume designer. So in that sense it was seamless.

Q: What advice would you give to someone that’s just starting out in the business?
It depends, it’s different for different people. I would advise one of 3 things, if you know someone in the industry or you know a celebrity I suggest that you become very close to that person, that would be helpful. But say you don’t have a rich relative or if you’re someone like me you have to a) intern or b) because of the way fashion is now, I would do what a lot of designers are doing now; go to school and study business. The fact of the matter is people don’t really sew anymore. You have to know how to design, but you don’t actually have to know how to do anything. It’s more important to get a business degree than it is to get a degree in fashion. Intern, intern intern! I can’t stress that enough and working at retail stores. The only mistake that I can say that I’ve made was that I never really worked in a retail store, because you really get to understand why people dress the way they do. A lot of people get caught up in the pictures in the magazine with these huge feather outfits and they don’t understand retail. That and really understanding business are the most valuable things that you can really do. If you have natural style and really great ideas you can hire someone to do patterns and that’s actually how the business runs anyway. Have a degree in business, intern, intern, intern and get a job in retail; those are the most important things.

Q: One last question Zulema, where do you see yourself in five years? I hope to be in at least three different markets and also working to try and expand people’s idea of what a fashion show really is, and what fashion is. The future of fashion is finding other mediums to express your vision artistically. I’m really looking forward to exploring various mediums, for me right now it’s film but it could possibly change to something else.

To learn more about Zulema Griffin please visit www.zulemagriffin.com

Q: How did you get started in the industry?
I actually started in the fashion industry by interning in Paris at legendary houses such as Yves Saint Laurent, Paco Rabanne and Jean Paul Gaultier. Soon thereafter I became a fashion stylist working with fashion magazines and high-profile/celebrity clients.

Q: How is your brand executing the slogan of “Changing the world one dress at a time”?
Every season we design one single dress within our collection and donate approximately 25 percent of the profits to our charity of choice. As our company grows, our goal is to be able to design a group of dresses and donate 100 percent of the profit to charity.

Q: What did you set out to accomplish with your Designers for Darfur initiative? Do you feel that it has been a success?
Initially my goal was simply to spread the word amongst the fashion industry that the genocide in Darfur was taking place. This stemmed from several discussions with people in the fashion industry that had no idea what was going on in Darfur. Fortunately, the universe had bigger plans and Designers For Darfur has gained an international following. Recently designers in the U.K. banned together to form their own Designers For Darfur group and collectively we are attempting to stage an international DFD show in Paris or Milan. I truly don’t believe that our efforts can be considered a success until the genocide in Darfur ends.

Q: How would you describe your personal style?
My own personal style is “urban warrior.” My uniform consists of a pair of army fatigues, a charitable slogan t-shirt, my black army cap and an overcoat or jacket made of confidence and purpose.

Q: You seem to have a solid sense of who you are as a person and a designer. Do you feel that this has been one of the keys to your success?
What I love about this question the most is that it actually holds the oxymoron that has become my life. My solid sense of self as a person as well as a designer is due to the fact that the word “success” is something that is not a part of my journey. My journey is simply that – my journey. The only way I am able to quantify and qualify my life is via the words of people that tell me how the story of my journey has helped them to live their dream or to become a fearless person. If this is what the world considers success, then I have surpassed their definition a million times over.

Q: So many talented designers, especially black designers, continue to fly under the radar. Why do you think that is?
This is a question that can not be sugar coated and/or edited for the sake of being politically corrected. We have not pooled together our power and/or resources to make a difference in the arena of fashion. We are outnumbered in the boardrooms where the financial decisions are made – We are under represented in the editing rooms where the fashion magazines are churned out – We are ignored in the advertising meetings that continue to reproduce the same old Lilly-white images. And most importantly, we have no one to blame for it but ourselves. We have to begin to train our young people that are interested in entering the supposed “glamorous” world of fashion that there are many more positions to be had in this exciting industry besides being a super model and/or celebrity designer. Had I known what I know today, I would have never become a fashion designer – I would have definitely become a fashion editor turned designer.

Q: You’re quite accessible via your blog site, Cut, Sew, and Blog (which we love!), YouTube and MySpace. What made you decide to be so open about your journey as a designer? What has the response been like?
I have purposely/intentionally made myself accessible and real via my online presence because I never wanted people (especially people of color) to misunderstand and/or misinterpret the price that one has to be willing to pay in order to participate in this game of fashion.

As a kid growing up that always knew exactly what I wanted to do with my life (thanks to the movie Mahogany starring Diana Ross), unfortunately I never got to see the faces of any black designers growing up. Therefore, I have made it my goal to make sure that youngsters of color coming up have a tangible person that they can use as a blueprint to improve upon in their own journey. By the overwhelming response that I have received from blog and the various social networks, I would say that everyone knows by now that “Malcolm Harris is young, gifted and black.”

Q: What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever received?
The best piece of advice that I have ever received came from my dear friend and supporter Madonna. Madonna always told me, “Never stop being you. If you love everything that you are and all that you are made of, eventually they will love you too… And if not, fuck’em.”

Q: What motivates and inspires you?
I am actually inspired and motivated by real life. Nothing inspires me more than the thought of a woman doing simple things. The thought of a woman reading the morning paper, chatting with friends or day dreaming in quiet corner motivates me to design clothes for those real yet simple moments.

Q: How would you describe your point of view for Mal Sirrah’s spring 2008 collection?
The Mal Sirrah Spring 2008 collection was based on the silhouette of one single dress and dubbed “One Dress – All Women – One World.” I really wanted to design a dress that could be made in many different fabrications, sizes, colors and/or dimensions. I love the fact that this dress can be belted, accessorized or jacketed to give the wearer her own individual look and style.

Q: What are a few of your must have pieces for spring/summer?
The ONE Dress. The One Dress has a complete modern feel and an amazing charitable component (25 percent of the profit goes to the ONE organization dedicated to ending world hunger).

Q: What would you like our readers to know about you?
That I have made more mistakes and experienced more disappointments than I dare to count; but the one thing that I have never done and refuse to do is to give up the fight. I will never give up the fight.

Q: Fill in the blank: “Fashion is
…whatever you want it to be.”

To learn more about Malcolm Harris and Mal Sirrah please visit www.malsirrah.com and www.cutsewandblog.com

Kingston, Jamaica born, Rochelle Thwaites excelled in the arts at a young age, which lead her at the age of 16 to leave Jamaica to study at the Ringling School of Art and Design in Florida where she obtained her Bachelor’s Degree in Interior Design.

Thwaites worked in this field for several years. However, having been exposed to her family’s businesses at a very young age, she developed a desire to pursue her own business venture. This became a reality after having a vivid dream of her own accessories collection. With the passion for style and the support of her husband, she formed her company Mimeki (derives from the Jamaican dialect Mi-mek-I, which means “I made it”) in March 2004. During 2004–2007 she painstakingly ensured that she learned every aspect of the accessories industry.

The Mimeki Collection reflects class, confidence and style. Thwaites is adamant about keeping the designs streamlined with a twist of trend. As part of her signature, each style generally uses at least dual colors or materials and uses a minimal amount of hardware. Clutch caught up with the designer to find out more about her and her up and coming luxury powerhouse, Mimeki.

Q: When did you launch this beautiful line?
Mimeki was officially launched January 2007.

Q: Why did you name the line Mimeki an does it have a meaning?
Mimeki means “I made it.” Initially when Mimeki was conceptualized, the line was to be a fully custom line of handbags. With that in mind, I thought Mimeki was appropriate and I loved that it had a positive connotation as well.

Q: What’s included in your collection?
Mimeki offers a variety of sizes and styles of handbags for any occasion. There are satchels, hobos, totes, and clutches to choose from. We also launched our line of signature scarves, which is primarily trimmed with lambskin leather.

Q: Where do you get inspiration from when designing pieces for your line?
I pull my inspiration from all over. I get inspired when I see a certain texture, pattern or even color. I will see a woman who has extraordinary personal style and get inspired by her individuality. It just depends on what catches my eye at the time.

Q: What is your favorite style of bag and why?
I would have to say that depends on the day. But lately, I have been rocking my Kennedy hobo as it holds everything and is extremely comfortable.

Q: What trends do you foresee this year?
Colors, colors . . . and more colors.

Q: Your collection has become a must-have among not only fashionistas, but Hollywood celebrities. How does that make you feel?
It is extremely fulfilling and refreshing to know that there are women out there, regardless of who it is, who stepped out of their standard “brand” box and chose to include a Mimeki as one of their must-haves.

Q: Did you always want to be a designer?
Absolutely. I have been designing since I can remember.

Q: What’s currently in rotation in your iPod?
Alicia Keys, John Legend and Beres Hammond to name a few.


Q: What’s one piece of advice would you give to someone who is stuck in a fashion rut and wants to reinvent themselves in 2008?
My advice would be to go back to basics and build from there. Know your style and work around that. There are a lot of great (and not so great) trends out there that you can use to give your personal style that edge it needs for 2008.

Q: There are lots of women of color in the fashion industry, but we rarely hear about them. Why do you think that is?
That is a very good question. Women of color in the fashion industry are compelled to be more aggressive and forthcoming in their approach for recognition for several reasons. However, regardless of what the reasons are, I think it comes down to marketing and perseverance. Designers like Kimora Lee Simmons, Tracy Reese and Rachel Roy have successfully put themselves on the fashion map and made it clear that it can be done.

Q: What advice would you give other women who are interested in becoming a designer?
I would say to definitely pursue your dreams! But do your research because it is an extremely difficult and competitive industry.

Q: Who are some of your favorite designers?
Rachel Roy and Alexander McQueen are my top two at the moment.

Q: What’s in your clutch?
My essentials are M.A.C. powder and Murad lip gloss.

Q: What’s in the future for Mimeki?
Mimeki will be launching it’s Kustom line this year!

To learn more about Rochelle or Mimeki please log-on to www.mimeki.com

Stephen Burrows is indeed a fashion legend. He’s the first African-American designer to achieve acclaim on an international level; A big deal even today, when many black designers lack the backing (financial or otherwise) to get their foot in the door. Burrows gained notoriety during an era when Studio 54 was the place to be and disco reigned supreme. His penchant for using jersey fabrics in vibrant colors set him apart from his counterparts who at the time were focused on more structured European inspired looks. It’s been over 40 years since the start of his illustrious career, and his designs are still alive and kicking.

Q: How did you get started in the fashion industry? Has fashion always been something that you loved?
I was going to Philadelphia Museum College of Arts to become an art teacher, and I decided after my first year there that I would try my hand at fashion design as a major. To that end, I decided to switch schools and go to FIT in New York City.

Q: It has been said that your early work captured the essence of the early 70s. Is your approach to design any different today than it was when you first started?
I have the same aesthetic–make it colorful, sexy, comfortable and with a great fit. Today you also have a more versatile textile market in knitted fabrics, which I love, and it helps keep you current.

Q: You’ve been designing for over forty years. How have you stayed inspired all of these years?
I love what I do so it’s more often then not, fun. Yes, you do have your ups and downs but that’s just part of this business, you can’t be perfect all the time it’s just impossible. I also have great muses to get inspiration from since I have known them from the beginning of my career; Pat Cleveland , Alva Chinn and now Pat Cleveland’s daughter, Anna Cleveland who is 18 and modeling.

Q: What do you feel has been your greatest accomplishment?
As someone said to me when I asked them “what would you say was my greatest contribution to fashion history in one word,” and they replied, ‘newness’ you brought something totally new to fashion.” I don’t think I could say it better, so I have adopted that statement as it sounded so right.

Q: The fashion business is not known for being kind or forgiving, and you’ve achieved the kind of longevity that most designers can only dream of. What do you think has been the key to your success?
Being in the right place at the right time and a lot of luck along the way from friends and associates who believe in my talent.

Q: How have you weathered ups and downs during the course of your career?
You just never give up because you love what you do. I would be a teacher at a college somewhere if I wasn’t doing this.

Q: If you had to start your career over again, is there anything that you would do differently? If so what?
I would have taken more business courses in college—just so I knew more about profit and loss, so to speak. But math was my least favorite subject therefore difficult for me, so of course I steered away from it.

Q: There’s been much ado about the lack of representation of women of color on the runway. And generally speaking, there aren’t many African American designers who receive international recognition. Why do you think that is?
Economics and demographic profiling by the powers that be in that given industry.

Q: What’s up next for you Mr. Burrows?
I’m always looking to expand my company. I’d love to design for film, have a men’s wear line and some freestanding BURROWS stores around the world sometime in the near future.

Q: What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?
Go to school and learn your desired craft and take a few business courses as a minor just so you know something about how it all works and you do not appear ‘a duck out of the water’ on the business side.

From the boardroom to the VIP room, there’s no question about who is in charge when you carry a Nikki Chu original. Her handbags are designed to compliment the modern woman’s multi-faceted lifestyle by bridging the gap between fashion, function, and technology. The design phenom’s gift for good taste has also transformed interiors for Mo’Nique and Boris Kodjoe among others. We chatted with Nikki about the vision behind her brand and what it takes to handle your business.

Clutch: What’s the mission/vision behind the Nikki Chu brand?
The Nikki Chu brand is a line of luxury business accessories for women, that fashionably blend design with function. The brand designs and manufactures laptop bags, handbags, and accessories for the growing women’s luxury market. The line of bags and totes are exactly what women have been asking for: design, function, and affordability.

Nikki Chu is a brand that is synonymous with design. Extravagant, but functional design is the key to the Nikki Chu brand. The self-empowered fashionable businesswoman demands quality and a product that will fill the void of a world full of “black nylon” business bags. The Nikki Chu totes are made exactly for the woman, whose lifestyle evolves from day to night.

Our goal is to be recognized as the leader in fashionable, yet affordable business bags for the growing executive woman. With technology taking the lead, Nikki Chu intends to follow. As we work our way into a wireless world, more women will be toting their laptops alongside their baby carriages. Our objective is to make sure that women are progressive, and at all times fashionable, as we continue to shake up traditions and culture.

Clutch: How did you get started in the fashion industry? How did you start working with interiors?
I got started in the Fashion Industry about 6 years ago, after quitting my 9 to 5 as a Creative Director at an advertising agency. I turned to what I knew best which was styling and reconstructing vintage clothes. As a child, I always had a passion for clothes, but we couldn’t ever afford anything I liked. I started sewing new arms on shirts, and cutting legs off of old pants. With the things I could do with a glue gun, who knew it would lead to all this.

As an interior designer I would say I was a late bloomer. But, I knew something was there because growing up I continually changed the layout of my bedroom, and it was always the most stylish place in the house. I didn’t nurture it until a good friend of my asked me to design her dressing room on the set of her TV show. To look like a club we went to in Miami, she wanted it all white, intimate, lots of candles and low seating. I executed it with only a $3000.00 budget and my business became word of mouth.

Clutch: Where did your passion for empowering women to embrace technology, while balancing fashion and function come from?
I have been a businesswoman since the day I left college. I constantly travel with my laptop, magazines, paperwork and files. I love technology and what is even more exciting is that it is ever changing, faster than fashion I believe. Ipod’s, Blackberry’s, cell phones, and CD’s to burn files… where do we put all these gadgets? So, I decided to develop a line of laptop bags, and handbags to accommodate modern traveling businesswoman, who still appreciate fashion yet with function.

Clutch: We love your tag line “handle your business” and you are obviously handling yours, what advice would you give to other young women who are striving for career success?
Yes, “handle your business” is definitely the mantra at Nikki Chu Design Corp. if I had to give young women advise for a successful career it would be: Education, dedication, and relationships. Education is the foundation of everything I do. I studied graphic design, which I use some aspect of it at least everyday, with all my projects. I can honestly say without that degree, I would not be where I am today.

Dedication. People who become extremely successful usually have put at least 10years of focus and dedication to the same goal. Whether its, day or night, weekend or weekday, it takes that commitment in order to see the huge payoff.

Relationships. What people don’t realize is that, most successful entrepreneurs have had doors opened because of a relationship with a businessperson they know, or having a positive attitude, and following up on contacts you meet. Sending thank you notes or small tokens of appreciation can get you further than a resume sometimes. Besides doing the work, maintaining my relationships with business associates is the other huge aspect to my success. Remember someone always knows someone else who can help you.

Clutch: What characteristics should a woman look for if she’s interested in investing in a quality handbag?
When investing in a quality handbag a woman should look for, compartments and pockets inside the bag. Yes, size does matter! Most women go day to night and the need to carry a lot of STUFF in her bag is important. Pay attention to handle comfort, sometime we can get caught up with the look of a bag and the function of it is not there. Chain and hard metal handles will be come annoying after a few hours of carrying it. So, stay away from funky handles that don’t have support.

Clutch: What are some signature details or distinguishing features in your design work? When we look at a Nikki Chu design, be it interiors or accessories, what sets it apart from the rest?
Some signature details you will find on my bags are very clean graphics, lines, and my trademark wallpaper pattern. What sets me apart from the rest is my attention to detail and my unique life experiences that have brought me from my humble beginnings from Toronto to Los Angeles. Traveling the world and seeing what women really need.

Clutch: Your eye for style extends to so many different areas, where do you find design inspiration for each project?
I find design inspiration everywhere I go! Hotel lobby design is my favorite place to draw inspiration for my interiors. I like clean lines, and modern meets vintage. Magazines are a great source for my inspiration, art galleries and open house tours on weekends. Inspiration for my handbags come from flea market finds and vintage stores. I like to take the old and revamp it into something new.

Clutch: You’ve worked on interiors for some of our favorite celebs including Tyra Banks and Gabrielle Union, who’s been your favorite celebrity to work with and why?
They have all been a pleasure to work with. Most of the celebs I have decorated for just want to come home to their house completely decked out! They don’t have the time in their schedule to do a project of that magnitude and that is why they hire me! I enjoy projects that I am trusted and given creative control, based on my portfolio of work. Music to my ears is “ I trust you and love your work, just do what you do best!”

Clutch: How would you describe your personal style?
My personal style changes from day to day, usually depending on my mood. Most people who know me say I always look different, from my hair, to my make up or my clothes. I am very eclectic in my style. I may have on a $10.00 dress, with a $700.00 pair of boots. For me it’s all in your accessories.

Clutch: We feel practically naked without our handbags, why do you think women are so attached to their bags?
Handbags to women are like sports cars to men, there are all different kinds of price tags and some represent a certain financial status. I think its all about human psychology, they say there is a waiting list for a $10,000.00 bag and everyone in the world wants it. Women save every last penny to get that item for status just like men and cars. We are trained to want what no one has, or to get something exclusive. Our handbags hold our life; it’s a part of our wardrobe.

Clutch: Are there any handbag/accessory trends that we should keep an eye out for?
New trends to watch out for are oversized bags and vintage inspired bags. Look for totes that are classic and can last longer than a season. Women are no longer carrying bags with diamonds and studs all over it, they tend to be to trendy and go quickly out of style. Bags are reverting back to simple, chic and functional.

Clutch: What future projects or collaborations do you have in the works?
Currently, I am doing collaboration deals with a number of company’s from sportswear and apparel to furniture. The Nikki Chu design concept expands across many different platforms. For more information about Nikki Chu please log-on to www.nikkichu.com and www.nikkichubags.com

1.Sophia Laptop Bag, $350, 2. Brandy, $300, 3.Sandra, $400, Nikki Chu Bags