Last summer, Bethann Hardison, activist, former model and leader of the Diversity Coalition, penned a letter to the “fashion heads that be” in New York, London, Paris and Milan demanding they add more diversity to their runways.
“Eves are on an industry that season after season watches fashion design houses consistently use one or no models of color.
No matter the intention, the result is racism.
Whether it’s the decision of the designer, stylist or casting director, that decision to use basically all white models, reveals a trait that is unbecoming to modern society.”
Hardison also called out major fashion houses such as Calvin Klein, Diesel, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Rag & Bone, Victoria Beckham, and Vivienne Tam—for not using any models of color at all.
Months later, Hardison has reassessed the situation and has noted there has been some progress. Out of the 16 designers she called out last year, she says some have improved, WWD reports.
In an email to the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc, (CFDA), Hardison said Narciso Rodriguez, the Row, and Calvin Klein as designers who made an effort to increase diversity. Calvin Klein increased from zero to five models of color, while the Row cast four. On the other hand, MM6 by Maison Martin Margiela received delinquent marks as the only New York label who failed to use any models of color at all.
Although the improvements were small in comparison to the actual number of designers, Hardison notes that continued improvement is still needed.
“The objective is to continue this improvement across the entire industry. We look for consistency and not because of advocacy or a season lending to darker skin. We will continue to watch and reveal season to season,” Hardison said.